TX 560 
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BREAD-THE VITAL FOOD 



Illustrated with 
Plates on Copper from Authentic Sources 
including a Glossary of Bread Terms, also 
a selected list of General and Historical 
References to Bread. 




SIGN OF THE 

BAKER. 
(Pompeii, a.d. 70.) 



Price 10 Cents 



Copyright 1920 liy 

CLAUDIA Q. MURPHY 

PUBLISHEk 

CONSULTANT IN HOME ECONOMICS 

41 Union Square West 

New York, N.Y. 




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For Description, See Page 31. 

e)C!.A604607 .r. ,„._^ 



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BREAD - - THE VITAL FOOD 

By CLAUDIA QUIGLEY MURPHY 

PART I 
THE VITAL FOOD. 

"Give us this day our daily bread," the most direct and heartfelt 
prayer in all ages, has become the most vital appeal in all tongues 
and by all peoples. The recent war with its chaos in trade and 
transportation has made the subject of bread of worldwide significance. 
We are dependent for happiness and even peace on the bread supply 
of the world. It is the staff of life, indeed, and today nations are made or 
wrecked, because of their wheat supply, not by ''self-determination." 

FOOD HABITS. 

Studies of the food habits of warring peoples, show the importance 
of the bread supply in the feeding of a nation. They have shown that 
60% of the total heat units, of the diet of the French, comes from the 
breads, and in Italy during the war 90% came from the bread stuffs. 
England increased her use of bread until it counted for half her food 
units. The danger of bread riots compelled all these nations to subsi- 
dize the "Wheaten loaf," charging the loss to the cost of the war. 

We in the United States, have never used bread as the basis of our 
diet. At most it has furnished only about 35% of the heat units required 
by man in his daily food. "There is no reason whatever why the bread 
consumption in this country should not rise to 50%. The small quantity 
of bread consumed here is due to the fact that very large wages are 
paid and that the people purchase the most expensive foods," says Dr. 
Graham Lusk, of Cornell Medical College, in a recent letter. 

That bread is recognized as the master builder of physical, intellectual 
strength is indicated in the many bulletins and pamphlets which have 
been written regarding the composition and proper combination of 
foods. In these we have learned to talk about "dietetic value," "cal- 
ories," "heat units," "well-balanced meals" and similar expressions 
unknown to the people of day before yesterday. Today, however, the 
price of food is uppermost in the minds of everyone, not the cost of 
raw materials, but the cost of nutrition, is the important thing! How 
much body building material and energy-giving fuel can we buy for the 
least money is the question. 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



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This is answered by Dr. Harvey W. Wiley's statement that "there is 
more energy in a pound of bread than in a pound of meat. Measured 
by actual nutritive power, there is no other complete ration which, in 
economy, can compare with bread." 

Sherman, of Columbia University, states that nine-tenths of th'i 
muscle building food in man's diet may well come from either wheat 
or oats. Two-thirds of the total heat units may come from bread. The 
addition of milk forms a balanced diet. There is no animal food, and, 
but few cooked vegetable foods of which this can be said. It possesses 
also the quality of permanent palatability, because it can be made into 
a light loaf, because of the elastic nature of its combined proteins. 

PROTEIN SUPPLY. 

Dr. Alonzo E. Taylor, who made an important contribution during 
the war, as a member of the United States Food Administration and the 
War Trade Board, says : ' ' There is no mystical property in wheat as 
a food. . . It must be clearly realized that the quality in wheat, that 
we prize most, lies in the peculiarities of its protein, the gluten that 
makes the bread the most convenient form in which our use of cereals 
can be maintained." 

Dr. C. F. Langworthy, of the office of Home Economics, Department of 
Agriculture, maintains that cereal grains constitute one of the most 
important food groups, and although we do not think of them in any 
way as akin to meat or usable in place of it, it is nevertheless true, that 
we depend upon them to supply a great deal of the protein of our diet. 

"In a large number of American families, meat, fish, dairy products, 
eggs and legumes furnish approximately 50 per cent of the total protein, 
and cereal foods furnish about 43 per cent, besides contributing in a 
very important way to the mineral and starch requirements of the 
body." 

BREAD ECONOMICS 

"Bread is our most efficient food. For this is true — life is continued 
in steps and the body is built in sequence so we have first the soil, then 
the plant; from which we get food, through which the animal and, 
finally, the human is nourished and life sustained." {Ward's Bread 
HOOK.) 

Study wheat and the resultant nutrition from it. The human system 
"jconverts 90% into nutrition value. But if the bushel of wheat is used 
Wn the production of animal food we read that the cow converts 80% 
Joi its grain into milk food; the pig 15% into pork food; chickens return 

But if the bushel of wheat is used in the production of animal food we read that the cow converts SO /c ot 
it.s grain into milk food; the pig \h% into pork food ; chickens return 5. 1 % of their grain in the production 
of e''gs with 4 2% in the production of flesh; while the steer only turns less than A 7o into beet. 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



So to quote Dr. Alonzo Taylor, of the University of Pennsylvania, 
"Bread is our cheapest food, for it gives us one-third more caloric value 
at one-tenth the cost." 

From a dietetic point of view the use of more bread in the diet is of 
value — it gives most calories at least cost. 

From an economic point of view it is imperative, for we can cut 
grocery bills by using an abvmdance of bread. There is no other way 
through which such instant r^esult can be had. 

More, there is the agricultural side to be included in our study of 
bread, for the prosperity of our farms is largely based on the active 
consumption of the breadstuffs produced. Through using bread more 
freely, we utilize our supply of wheat and other grains; we create a 
more active home market, which instantly gives our great agricultural 
interests ready funds for next year's crops. 

There is no question confronting us in our national life more impera- 
tive than the creation of a demand for more bread in our diet — for the 
utilization of our breadstuffs is our bulwark against economic, industrial, 
agricultural and social if not national disaster. 

RELATIVE AND ECONOMIC VALUE. 

The following comparison indicates the relative economic value of 
other foods with bread. Using the prevailing price in your own locality, 
you may complete the following table, which will tell the story more 
accurately than selected price data which are subject to change. 

Cost 
Protein Total Use Local 

Kind of Food Calories Calories Prices 

1 pound bread (white) (miscellaneous) 168.72 1174 ? 

1 pound beef (round) A.P 353.80 652 ? 

1 pound beef (round) E.P 386.48 709 ? 

1 pound milk (1 pint) (whole) 59.84 314 ? 

1 pound lamb chops (loin) A.P 290.32 1274 ? 

1 pound lamb chops (loin) E.P 339.28 1495 ? 

1 pound oysters (solids) A.P 108.88 222 ? 

1 pound oysters (in shell) E.P 112.56 229 ? 

1 pound chicken (broilers) A.P 232.24 289 ? 

1 poimd chicken (broilers) E.P 390.40 492 ? 

A.P.— As Purchased. E. P.— Edible Portion. 

Adapted from Laboratory Dietetics by Dr. Mary S. Rose. 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



Bread furnishes a high percentage of calories from protein, as well 
as total calories for the amount of money expended. The use of more 
bread in the diet, will lower meat and grocery bills, it will also lower 
the price of other commodities through a lessened demand. Bread and 
milk is justified not only by experience, but by long experimental study 
in which these foods alone furnished an adequate diet. No mother needs 
to worry about the children who eat plenty of bread and butter, or 
bread and milk. 

CONCERNING OBESITY. 

"I can't eat bread, it's too fattening," says one who by overeating 
and underexercising is adding to her weight, but Dr. Graham Lusk says: 
"There is no food which can really be considered fattening. The ques- 
tion of obesity is simply a question of overeating. Potatoes have been 
defined as being fattening as well as bread. If carbohydrate food is 
taken in quantity, sufficient to maintain life, a person needs very little 
meat. ' ' 

DIET FOR HEALTH. 

Prof. E. V. McCollum, Professor of Chemical Hygiene, Johns Hopkins 
University, in his recent book "The American Home Diet," makes this 
statement: "Accidents, damaged products and ruined machinery, as 
well as physical discomfort and mental sufferings, are the price which 
society is paying for living in such a way as to foster the early degener- 
ation of the body tissues and consequently early loss of youth. They 
are the causes of inaccuracy, lack of efficiency, and lack of success. The 
records show that the mortality from old age diseases, has increased 
nearly 100% in thirty years. There can no longer be any doubt that 
faulty nutrition is one of the most important factors contributing to 
this condition." 

"Early ageing is manifested not only in the ways just mentioned, but 
is reflected in the character of much of the advertising matter in our 
newspapers and periodicals. 

"It is time to present to our children, in practical form, the best 
advice possible in the light of modern nutrition, studies, concerning how 
to live so as to promote health and vigor, and to preserve as long as 
possible the characteristics of youth. One of the most important means 
of preventing the deterioration of the body is through proper nutrition." 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



Bread is not ouly the MASTER BUILDER of energetic bodies, but 
is the most efficient ECOMOMllST of money, time, labor. Contrasting 
its preparation witli tliat of otlier food, from tlie standpoint of time, 
strengtli and satisfaction, we tuid tliat it is the strongest labor-saving 
ally of the housekeeper. Today the bread mixer plays as important a 
part in the kitchen equipment as the typewriter does in the office equip- 
ment. The modern housewife making her bread by the quick method, 
puts the ingredients iii the bread mixer, turns the crank until a smooth 
batter is formed, then adds Hour, gradually, until a soft dough is formed ; 
she then sets it aside to rise until the bulk is doubled, then kneads it, 
shapes it into loaves, lets it rise again, and bakes it in a hot oven. In 
a few hours the deed is done. 

HOME MADE BREAD— OLD AND MODERN. 

She need not revert to the old eighteenth century method of making 
uncertain yeast, laboriously mixing and kneading dough in a huge tray, 
and then engaging the time and work of the entire family in preparing 
the brick oven for baking ; for the use of scientifically prepared, reliable 
yeast, the bread mixer, the thermometer, ovens heated by gas, electricity 
or oil, reduce the labor of bread making to child's play, in contrast to 
old rule of thumb methods and antiquated appliances. 

The method of preparation of bread is simple and the time consumed 
in baking very short in comparison with the preparation of many other 
foods. With the usual measure of yeast, the dough will become light 
in about three hours ; with twice the yeast the dough will rise sufficiently 




OLD DOUGH BOX AND PADDLE 

(Early 18th century) 



in one hour. We need not fear that the excess of yeast will be harmful. 
Today yeast is taken in milk, or alone, as one of the most helpful sources 
of the vitamin, which is essential in keeping the nerves in good condition. 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



Using yeast freely to save time, in two to three hours we may prepare 
sufficient bread to last several days. Nutritious, appetizing, crusty, 
good-looking loaves fill the bread box. The housekeeper smiles with 
pride and satisfaction as she thinks, "Well, that's food fit for a king 
and it cannot all be eaten up in one meal ! ' ' 

Even the hot rolls, than which nothing is more delicious and appreci- 
ated for breakfast, luncheon, dinner or supper, may be prepared days 
before and kept in the dough for immediate use. The recipe for Denver 
or Everlasting Biscuit, will enable the busy housekeeper to introduce 
them as a delightful surprise with but little effort at any desired time, 
or bread dough may be enriched with sugar and any sweet fat, more 
flour added and used as basis for all manner of fancy rolls. 

DENVER BISCUITS. 

1 qt. milk — scalded and cooled. 
1 cup potatoes — mashed. 
1 cup sugar. 
1 cup lard. 

1 cake compressed yeast, in >4 cup warm water. 

2 teaspoons baking powder. 
1 teaspoon soda. 

1 teaspoon salt. 

Into the quart of milk — scalded and cooled, add the cup of potatoes, 
boiled and mashed, the sugar, the melted lard, and a cake of compressed 
yeast that has been dissolved in i/o cup of warm water. 

Add the baking powder, soda and salt to the flour, thoroughly inter- 
mixing it. 

Use flour enough for soft batter ; let the batter or sponge rise until it 
bubbles; then add sufficient flour for a stiff dough and put it in the 
ice-box or refrigerator for use. 

When wanted to bake, pinch off sufficient dough to make into the 
desired amount of biscuits ; let rise one hour, then bake. 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



BREAD THRIFT. 

To have food ready for instant use is proof of good providing; with 
good bread in the bread box and an emergency shelf in the pantry, the 
housekeeper is fortified against all surprises of the unexpected guest. 

Properly made bread has excellent keeping qualities if placed in a 
clean bread box. The importance of washing, scalding and drying the 
bread box, at least twice a week, is sometimes overlooked. While leaving 
the bread in its wrapper helps to keep it moist, if it is left very long 
the bread tends to become musty. Watch the bread box as carefully as 
you do the refrigerator ; both may be sources of uneconomic expenditure 
through useless spoilage of food. 

The supply of home-made bread which is made so easily by modern 
methods, pays maximum profits for minimum investment — greatest of 
all is the ease of mind which it gives to the planner of meals and con- 
server of health. 

If bread is not perfectly fresh, it may be freshened by dipping, for a 
second, in cold water or milk and rebaking in a rather cool oven ; there- 
fore the large baking is an economy of labor. 

Steamed bread is palatable and affords variety ; the section of a loaf or 
single slices, or rolls placed over rapidly boiling water and closely 
covered soon soften, ready for use. 

Delicious bread crisps are made of stale bread, by breaking into small 
rough pieces; dipping each in milk quickly, placing on buttered tin, 
putting in a cool oven and leaving until the crisps are quite dry. These 
are good in soup or hot milk. 

Croutons made from stale bread are acceptable substitutes for crackers 
to serve with soup. 

Cinnamon toast is always welcomed with tea, coffee or cocoa, hot or 
iced. 

What is better on a hot day than ice cold milk and good bread, or 
on a cold day than hot milk with good bread ! 

A recent survey covering 9,614 farm homes, in the thirty-three northern 
and western states, made by the United States Department of Agricul- 
ture, State Relation Service, Office of Extension Work North and West, 
shows that 94 per cent of the women make all or part of the family' 



10 BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



bread. In the cities, about 60 per cent of the bread used is made in 
the home. The remaining 40 per cent is largely produced and city 
consumed. 

THE MODERN BAKE SHOP 

The commercial bakery is distributing daily, millions of loaves of 
machine-made bread throughout the towns of the United States. This 
probably constitutes the best and most efficient bread supply the world 
has ever known. 

A trip through a modern bakery would probably be a revealer of 
secrets, an "eye-opener," to the majority of housewives and would be 
time profitably and pleasurably spent. 

In the baker's laboratories, the materials used are submitted to a 
critical, scientific test ; the formulas or recipes utilized are the result of 
careful trial and analysis ; the ingredients are accurately weighed, not 
measured ; the machinery is modernized as often as necessary, to produce 
perfect results ; the dough is kept at exactly the right temperature from 
beginning to end ; and the heat of the oven through which the loaves 
travel, is regulated at the top and bottom of the loaf, to produce the well 
baked crumb and attractive golden crust. As the loaves emerge from 
the oven and tumble into cooling racks they are as perfect as the baker 
knows how to make them. Nothing is left to chance. There is no dust, 
there are no odors, there are no flies, the bread is not touched by human 
hands from the time it begins its journey as flour, yeast, fat, sugar and 
liquid until it appears on the sorting table to be machine wrapped in 
paper, in preparation for the market. Do like conditions prevail in the 
home kitchen? 

The business of the commercial yeast manufacturer and baker, is to 
produce the best possible loaf, under the most ideal conditions, it is 
possible for him to create. Baker's bread is wholesome, sanitary, scienti- 
fically made bread. Applied chemistry has made great contribution to 
our daily br^^ad. One of our greatest chemists gave years of research 
time, to the study of breaC. Today his discoveries are used by the 
bakers to improve their product. 

What standard does the housewife apply to her brmd? Is it the 
standard of habit or custom, or is it based on actu il comparison and 
knowledge ? 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 11 

Since the war, the demand in the United States for bread made from 
fine white flour has increased. The addition of whole wheat or oatmeal 
to the bread may be advisable, especially for children whose diet consists 
chiefly of bread and milk. 

It is well for inexperienced housekeepers to ask for expert advice 
regarding their bread, in order that they may be able to set up an 
intelligent standard. Opportunities for judging or scoring breads are 
often given at fairs, and the home demonstration agents sent out by 
the State College of Agriculture, are always ready and willing to give 
such assistance. 

BREAD SCORING. 

It is highly desirable and advantageous that the bread-maker learn 
to score her own bread, in order that she may be a competent judge of 
good and bad methods. 

William Jago, in his valuable book "The Technology of Bread 
Making, ' ' has a chapter entitled ' ' Bread Analysis, ' ' which will be helpful 
to the scientific student. Many State Experiment Stations have pub- 
lished excellent bulletins on flour and bread standards. 

Score cards for judging bread differ somewhat, but the one used by 
the Bureau of Chemistry, United States Department of Agriculture, for 
the ordinary yeast raised, white bread, is a good guide. 

/ Shape 5 

General appearance J Smoothness of crust 5 

( Depth and evenness of color 5 

2. Lightness • • . . 10 

( Quality (crispness and elasticity) 5 

3. Crust - Thickness 5 

( Color 10 

4. Crumb, Texture (size and uniformity of cells, thinness of cell walls)... 15 

Elasticity, softness and springiness 15 

5. Flavor, Taste and odor 25 

Total • • 100 

What is the fate of bread on our table ? Is it all used, every crumb, 
or is part of it relegated to the garbage pail ? Is bread, just bread, used 
as an accessory, or is it made the important article of diet? 



12 BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 

BODY BUILDING AN ESSENTIAL. 

The woman who feeds her family intelligently, is a builder using fore- 
sight not only for today, but for the week, the year, the generation. As 
home manager, she spends nine-tenths of the income. The wise women 
spends a liberal amount of it for the tested and tried body building 
material — bread. She secures variety in the bill of fare through use of 
many types of bread stuffs. 

Very often one hears the housekeeper exclaim, "I wish I knew some- 
thing new. I get so tired of having the same old things. ' ' Many good, 
appetizing dishes may be prepared of bread, which will add variety and 
pleasure to the meal. 

A week's, "EAT MORE BREAD," dinner menus are suggested, which 
may be used in whole or part. 

Resolve to eat more bread, resolve to give more of this health-building, 
muscle-making food to your children. 

Make BREAD the MASTER BUILDER in the HOME. 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 13 



DAILY BREAD MENUS. 

I. 

BREAD SOUP. 

Baked Fish with lii-ead Stuffing Ilollandaise Sauce 

Tomato Salad Cheese Balls 

Bread and Butter 

Coffee 

Bon Bons 

II. 

Vegetable Souj) Bread Sticks 

Creamed Eggs and Peas in Bread Cases 

Any Green Salad French Dressing 

Peach Pudding — Layers of toasted bread and peaches 

III. 

Tomato Soujp Croutons 

Loin of Veal Bread Stuft'ing 

Gravy Eolls 

Cauliflower au gratin 

Caramel Bread Pudding with Caramel Sauce 

Coffee 

IV. 

Clear Soup Bread Sticks 

Tuna Fish in Bread cases Pimento Sauce 

Kidney Bean Salad Bread and Butter 

Crackers and Cheese Coffee 

Fruit 

V. 

Fruit Cocktail Bread Fingers 

Savor^r Stew Bread Dumplings 

Head Lettuce Salad Russian Dressing 

Preserves Cheese Bread 

Coffee 

VI. 

Broiled Chicken Bread Sauce 

Potato Croquettes Peas 

Eomaine Salad 

Cheese Bread 

Coffee 

VII. 

Cream of Celery Soup Croutons 

Beef Loaf Tomato or Mushroom Sauce 

Mashed Potato Celery 

Fruit Salad Bread and Butter Sandwiches 

Coffee 



14 BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



PART II 

HISTORICAL FACTS CONCERNING BREAD 

Bread stands as a definite token or expression of the civilization of 
a country. 

Looking backward many interesting pictures present themselves. 
White bread or Manchet was first used in church service and represented 
"The Body of Christ." Then the clergy allowed some of the uncon- 
secrated church bread to be sold to the nobility; then as wealth de- 
veloped, the middle classes were able to purchase it. Then later, the 
baking of white bread was removed from the convents, where the nuns 
baked it, or from the monasteries, when it was sometimes baked by the 
friars, to the homes of the rich when bake ovens were installed. 

Chete bread is constantly referred to in all old books dealing with the 
foods of the people of the centuries up to the eighteenth. It was used 
by the middle classes just as the brown or black bread was used by the 
peasantry. 

In the pages of Country Contentments by G. M. (or Gervaise Mark- 
ham) is found an interesting resume of bread making and barm pre- 
paring of that period. The copy from which these plates were made 
was published in London in 1623, and is a rare example of early house- 
hold literature. The pages are reproduced photographically on copper 
for class use. The housewife of that day was a busy and a most efficient 
person. She ordered her household constructively and diligently. 

Not only did the type of bread used indicate the social standing of 
the family, but in the homes of the nobility we read that the condition 
of the bread also had the same bearing, for the royal family had the 
fresh baked bread — the nobility used it when it was one day old; the 
gentry when it was two days; the scholars or friars when three days 
old ; and the peasantry the four day old bread. For remember, bread 
was baked in early days in the ovens of the Manor, the homes of the 
peasants not including such appliances. 

The word Lady means loaf giver — for one of the definite duties of 
the lady was to distribute the loaves as above described to the classes 
indicated. 

Then followed strict rules and regulations for bread, its production 
and use. The care in making, the skill in baking — each had its set form 
of regulation. 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



15 




OLD YEAST POT 



Barm was the old name for what we 
now call yeast. It was kept as wholesome 
as possible, but was usually over-fermented. 
There was no understanding of yeast 
growth, for there was no knowledge of 
bacteriological conditions. But certain 
facts insisted upon recognition — so that the 
unskilled became more proficient through 
many failures to have sweet nutty bread. 
Out of this has developed the carefully con- 
ducted and skillfully handled yeast indus- 
try of today, which replaces the happy-go- 
lucky, hit or miss methods of yesterday, 
which gave us barm, then slop yeast, then 
brewers ' yeast, followed by home or factory 
made dry yeast, and now the highly concen- 
trated, most efficient, active compressed 
yeast of today, rich in vitamines and potential energy. 

There was a wide variation of breads, between the highest type and 
"all-sorts" or similar appellation, known as "black-bread." This was 
made of various kinds of other grain 
added to wheat, and was consumed by 
the poorest classes. It was analagous to 
the present black bread of Europe. 

The bakeries were very closely in- 
spected and rigid regulations were en- 
forced. This caused bread making to 
become a fine art and made standardiza- 
tion possible. Even today the poorest 
families throughout Europe buy their 
bread, as they realize that they cannot 
produce as good a product in their own 

homes. The little French girl who through shot and shell stayed and 
baked the village bread, was equally hero and winner of the croix de 
guerre with the soldier who went "over the top" to victory. Without 
their daily bread the village people would have starved. American 
soldiers pay high tribute to French village hvead. (Continued to Page 18.) 



e/W our ^'£ 

J**« facjimileSijndtureV'* 

\ YEAST J= -, 

V ^CONTAINING J^ i 



MODERN FORM OP YEAST 



16 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



l?4- 



0»I>ISASCES MA»E AT RtTHAJi 



.,. «p T&zu To» rsi rum 



0« A FLESH DAT. 



"Dyanzt. 



Suppei. 



BriTj 2:U A!c, <- f 

V' - ' ''* 

K-^n;u3cr la Ticw or cap , i 

VcnnoT, in hrcai' .« n uit , I 

Pcfl«ll$ 01 R«eJ IXcre « 

Muroo, ,. , . -> * 

Arm' wrcrJ. J 

S»s3ne,;rOol.c.S:orVe 01 1 

ConTCs ot ff, 

FnaoJcts, bilifd C^T?, • 

Cui'.jrv'. girCJilic^'. ' 

cc f nnck, ' 



Cheat Brc»<3indM»o;kn-. : • 
Bccrc ar«i Aic, n.-^ 

\V,.-r. • ""• - 

KkC-. • - '•' 

Ch.. • 



Gicco'sof Monwor'-'fui- 1 
ton.ft,jppeJ • lib Ckwo. J 

Coovrto; f'. '' 

l-hc^iOJ, Hcr:>e. S«»»e- 1 
brJ. „ , J 

Cocks. Pl<rv-Tit or OoUrs. 
S«ctt JolKtTTt ot tXai-it. 
Qoiw.cs ot Pii'iua', 



a«f> 



SccoodCoorfc- 



jdlT, Ipocm, Cnxaxei "! , „^ g 

Alootxit, J 

rhciunt,H«m,Baten«,J , j ^ 

PirtTicges, QMfles or 1 , j 

Cocki, PVoTtn or Gii.les, ^ » 

Lirkcs or Rabbets, 

Snvtcrs PuIWm or ChKktts, i > ■ 

VeijiibBinfeaepafti J ^^ 

Taitj, 



Blaok-mogt « ««»>" **■ ' 

KtiW, Lan be oj Pcjocs, • 

PilTTK^C or QuJtiCT, ' 

GoJ^i « Ertitz", « 
or Tci'.ts, Polteru.Chic' pip'i 

'Rabbens or Laiki, 1 

Tane, . « 

Fruitc, » 
BorKr an] Efnv 

Venifoo or qdicr Baked 1 ^ 
Kea:a, j 



A collection of Ordinam-e.^; ft)r the lloyal Househokl of England from 
King Edward III to William and Mary ; published in London. 1790. Two 
pages are here shown indicating the exactness with which each person 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



17 



_ , mtflcs. 

Frfner. , 

Tiwr wirb pow()(^ro^ pifards, i 

Sua bj the Da/ 3!. 5». ©?■_ 




Ok 


A FISH DAT. 






Ch«t Brca,* and Manchctt, 


16 


i.iT. 

8, 






OR. 


'■ . 9 


Hcrnrg. 






PctJ^c. 




1 


3 
8 


OrgjiKrLyng, 




1 


Poudral b^ks or LimprOEJu" 


I 


II 


Cjitcr Salmon, 




1 
I 


3 6 


Whjriini;, 






16 


H^ddoik., MullcttJ, 


or Baft, 


r 


16 


PUrte ..rGurijir.l. 




I 




Sc4 iiicamir ot baallej. 


b 


i& 


txjngerj. Door 




I. 


16 


Porjjolf, Scale, 




t 


3 4- 


C»rpc, 1 roiiic. 




» 


CmUbs, Lolificrs, 




% 


xz 


Cuiti'd, 






't 


Ralalk or Flage, 




> 


Taj-tt doled. 




1 


12 


Fryner, 






8 


FniKCy 


SccoBii Courfc. 


t 




SecooJ Pmt.igc, 




t 


4 


Sturgion pr' v; 1 r' 




I 


3 ♦ 



Byn or mhcr <li(h, 

Brcainc or oibcr dllb. 

Tench, 

Perch, or ojlier Aif\t, 

ties with l.am;>rcy> roft, 

Chynes ot Salmon btoyltd^ 

tacTca 



Shrympc* 



iji the hoii.'chold ^vas icd in the clays of Henry Vlll. Note the Chete 
aiifl IMaiK-hett s])ecified, the portion of meat, and also the absence of 
vegetables even on fish or fast days. 



18 BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 

The development of bread making illustrates industrial, social and 
economic progress in a very striking way. 

Bread Street in London, where Milton was born, was so named from 
a market in which bread formerly was sold. In 1302 the bakers of 
London were forbidden to sell bread elsewhere. The Baker's Guild of 
London was established in 1307, denoting that in the fourteenth century 
in England, bread making was a recognized craft. All through Europe 
for centuries, the bread supply has been furnished through bakeries. 
Rich and poor alike buy their bread. Formerly in England, the type 
of bread eaten denoted the class, as money and estates do today. The 
bread consumed by those of highest rank and in the most affluent cir- 
cumstances, was the finest and whitest simnel-bread, "manchet" or 
"pain-demayn ;" so called from the figure of our Saviour, or the Virgin 
Mary impressed upon each round flat cake. 

We possess less knowledge of the bread of non-warring countries, such 
as Spain, but this excerpt from a recent letter shows how it is regarded 
there. 

"In Spain a great deal of bread is eaten because it is so good. The 
Spaniard eats much of it with his meals, and when he comes to the 
United States and sees the small quantity and thin slices that are served 
with meals here, it is a great surprise to him. The Spaniard needs much 
more because it has come to be his preferred form of food." 

"In Spain there are many fiestas during the year and families invite 
each other to meals with great frequency. The care that the receiving 
family has, is to prepare the table with a large amount of bread, taking 
care to buy it at the favored bakery. It would be considered very 
lacking in etiquette to serve bread made at home. 

"In the homes of the rich there are always guests and much bread is 
served with the great variety of other things. 

* * The bread is so well made that many people prefer it to other food. 
The working men often breakfast on a large portion of bread. 

"In Spain the bakeries are an essential factor of life. It can be said 
that they are artists in making bread." 

After one has eaten bread in European countries, one understands 
why it constitutes so large a part of the daily food. It is always good. 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



19 



With appreciation and wisdom we have adapted many of the manners 
and customs of Europe. We may profitably add their habit of making 
the wholesome loaf the major part of every meal. It will greatly simplify 
living, give time for high thinking, increase good health and multiply 
the bank account. 




A ROYAL PARTY OF THE FIFTEENTH CENTURY 

In the illustration of a dinner scene at court, a rare print from the fifteenth 
century, notice that the "Nappe'" or cloth is duly laid and upon it are seen the 
saltcellar, which must first be placed upon it; then the bread and then the 
cups. Knives are wanting-, for most people carried their own, and for those 
who failed, the servant is seen with one at his side. Forks had not yet been 
invented. The bread is in small round loaves. 



20 BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



BREAD TERMS AND THEIR MEANING. 

Apple Bread (Eng.) — A sweet, light bread made of flour, apple juice and leaven. 
Apple Cake — Biscuit dougli, enriched with egg, covered with sliced apple, sugar, 

and cinnamon, raised and baked. Serve with coffee at breakfast or lunch. 
Banbury Cakes — Eich dough, with filling of currants, chopped candied peel, 

sugar. Serve with luncheon or tea. 
Black Bread (Eng. J — Bread made from wheat and other flours, usually barley. 
Bran Bread or Muffins — Bread to which bran is added. Used to increase 

mineral matter and bulk in the diet. 
Bread Sticks (Ita'l.) — Bread dough shaped, in thin sticks eig'ht inches long. 

Baked. Serve with soup or salads. 
Brioche (Fr.) — Sweetened biscuit dough enriched with eggs and formed into 

shapes, often twisted and coiled. Brush with sugar solution after baking. 
Brown Bread — Bread in which barley, rye or wheat-flour and peas were used 

with malt, in making the dough. 

CaraiDay Bread (Ger.J — Rye bread containing caraway seed. 

Cheat (Old Eng.) — All wheat bread served to all but those of high estate. 
Similar to bread from flour grouu'l to 85% of the wheat. 

Cheese Sticks — Finger rolls with fresh grated cheese added, just before rolls 
are taken from oven. Serve with salads. 

Cinnamon Rolls — Biscuit doiigh, rolled thin, spread with butter, sugar, cinna- 
mon, washed currants ; formed into cylinder, cut into inch sections, raised 
and baked. Serve at luncheons. 

Clover Leaf Biscuits — Biscuit dough shaped into marble-shaped balls. Baked 
in threes in muffin pan. 

Cocket (Early Eng.) — Bread cf inferior quality, so called probably, as meaning 

seal. 
Coffee Cake — Biscuit dough, enriched with egg, cox^ered with chopped nuts, 

sugar and cinnamon, and bread crumb mixture ; raised and baked. Serve 

with coffee at breakfast or lunch. 
Crescents — Bread dough rolled thin, cut in four-inch squares, buttered, rolled 

tightly, adding butter as rolled, curved into crescent-shape, raised and 

baked. 
Croutons — Tiny cubes of stale bread, either browned in fat, or in an oven. 

Serve w^ith soup. 
Crumpets or Muffins (Eng.) — Thick batter, baked in muffin rings on hot griddle, 

until brown crust is formed. Serve for breakfast or luncheon. 
Doughnuts — Biscuit dough made sweeter with added sugar, raised, kneaded, 

rolled and cut in squares ; or cut in strips, twisted, like a rope, again 

raised and fried in deep fat. 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 21 



Fluttes, "Pistolets" or Dinner Rolls — Dough made as for French bread. Shaped 
four and one-half inches long with round pointed ends, with three diagonal 
incisions on top. Serve as dinner or luncheon rolls. 

Graham — Yeast batter made sweet with molasses and thickened with Graham 
flour and white flour in ratio to please the maker — 1 part Graham to 2 parts 
white flour is excellent. 

Hot Cross Buns — Biscuit dough containing raisins or currants. Cross may be 
formed by cut of sharp knife, or made with ornamental frosting. Served 
on Good Friday. 

Horse Bread (Early Eng.) — Principal ingredients, beans and peas. 

"Hutscl Bread" (Ger.) — Raised bread made with pear and prune juice for 
liquid, sugar, fat, fruit, eggs, raisins, nuts, lemon peel, spice and anise seed 
added to raised sponge. Baked in loaves. Used in place of fruit cake. 

Manchett (Old Eng.) — Bread made with fine white flour. First used in church 
service, later used by nobility and gentry. 

Moravian Bread — Light bread made with potatoes in sponges, eggs and shorten- 
ing added to raised sponge, then turn into dripping pan. When light, 
brush with melted butter. Make parallel rows of depressions on top of 
bread with forefinger. Fill with butter and brown sugar. 

Poppy Seed Braids — Bread dough braided. ^Mien nearly baked, brush with 
beaten egg yolk, powdered sugar and sprinkle with poppy seeds. 

Potato Bread — Potato water and mashed potatoes used in the bread sponge. 

"Pulled Bread" — Small finger lengths of the crumb of bread, heated until 
golden brown. 

Rasped Rolls — Remove crust with grater, return to oven, and bake for five 
m.inutes. 

Rusks (Eng.) — Bread dough baked in long, fiat rolls, \^^len cold, cut in slices 
and brown in oven. 

Rusks (Ger.) — Bread dough made rich with sugar, fat and eggs. Shaped into 
tall biscuit and baked slowlj\ 

Rye Bread (Polish) — Raised bread made of potato, yeast, seasoning, whole- 
ground rye flour, and white-bread flour. Caraway seed sometimes added. 
Baked in loaves. 

Saffron Bread (Eng.) — Type of raised bread colored with saffron, flavored with 
caraway seed. 

Sally Lunn (Eng.) — Biscuit dough, enriched with eggs, made into round cakes, 
baked slightly and quickly. 

Salt Rising Bread — Sponge made with warm liquid, salt and cornmeal. Natural 
fermentation develoj^js characteristic flavor, due to bacteria. "Starter" 
sold in open market is composed of bacteria. 

Short Bread (Scotch) — Very rich, sweetened bread rolled oval or round, candied 
orange or lemon peel on top. 



22 BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



Swedish Rolls — Eich biscuit dough, one-fourth inch thick, spread with butter, 

cinnamon, sugar, finely chopped raisins and citron. Shape like jelly roll, 

cut in slices. After baking, glaze with beaten egg white. May also be 

shaped for Tea Bread or Tea Eing. 
Swedish Wreaths — Any bread dough enriched with fat, shaped into rings, upper 

surface covered with chopped almond. Serve with afternoon tea or dinner 

salad. 
Tea Scones (Scotch) — Eich biscuit dough cut in three inch squares. Press into 

triangles, after adding melted butter and chopped raisins. Brush tops 

with milk and bake in hot oven. Serve with tea. 
Tourte (Early Eng.) — Bread made of unbolted meal. In common use among 

the humbler classes. 
Turnip Bread (Ancient Eng.) — Turnip pulp, flour, yeast, caraway seed. 
Twisted Sticks — Eich biscuit dough, rolled one-fourth inch thick, spread with 

butter, folded in three layers. Strips cut one inch wide and six inches 

long, and then twisted. When baked, spread with confectioner's frosting. 
Wastel Bread (Old Eng.) — Light wheat bread, used by more luxurious and 

wealthy middle class of England. 
Yorkshire Cake — Biscuit dough, made into cakes. WTien raised make hole in 

center before baking. WTien baked rub with melted butter. 
Yule Cakes — Very rich, sweetened, raised biscuit dough, to which is added 

nutmeg, currants, candied lemon peel and eggs. Serve at Christmas time. 
Zwieback (Ger.) — Eusks cut in slices and browned in slow oven. 

SELECTED REFERENCES ON BREAD 
HISTORIC. 

Chambers, E.— The Book of Days, pp. 119-21, Vol. 1, W. & E. Chambers, Ltd., 
London. 

Farley, John — London Art of Cookery 1789 

Glasse, Mrs. Hannah — Art of Cookery 1746 

Hazlitt, W. C. — Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine, London 1893 

Kitchener, W.— The Cook's Oracle 1829 

Markham, Gebvaise — English Housewife 1683 

MoxoN, Elizabeth — English Housewifery 1785 

Murray, A. H. — Oxford English Dictionary, Clarendon Press, Oxford.... 1903 

NoTT, John — Cook's Dictionary 1723 

Ordinances & Eegulations, for the Government of the Eoyal Household.. 1790 

Eaffald, Elizabeth — The Experienced English Housekeeper 1786 

Spon — Spons' Household Manual, E. & N. Spon, London N.D. 

The Queen's Closet Opened, London 1679 

Whole Duty of Woman, a Guide from Sixteen to Sixty, London. . . . 1712 
Ude, Louis— The French Book 1813 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 23 

GENERAL. 

Composition — Food Values — Place in Diet. 

Bailey, E. H. L. — Source, Chemistry and Composition of Foods, P. Blakiston & 

Sons, Co., Philadelphia. 
Chapin, How — Teaching of Nutrition may effect the Nation's Welfare, Tour, 

Aug-. 7, 1920, American Medical Ass'n. 
Harcourt — The Nutritive Value of White and Brown Bread, Bakers' Weekly, 

Nov. 25, 1916. 
HiNBEDS — The Effect of Food Restrictions — Tour, American Medical Ass'n. 

Feb. 7, 1920. 
Holmes — Digestibility of "\^lieat Bran, Bulletin No. 751, Div. of Publications, 

Wash., D. C. 
Jagg — The Technology of Bread Making, Bakers Helper Co., 1911, (Out of 

Print.) 
McCann— The Famishing World, Doran, 1918. 
McCoLLTJM^ — Newer Knowledge of Nutrition, MacMillan, 1918. 
Mendell — Changes in the Food Supply, Yale University Press. 
Osborne & IMendell — Nutritive Value of Proteins of Cereals; J. Biol, Chem., 

March, 1920. 
Rose, Mary Swartz — Feeding the Family, MacMillan. 
Sherman — Food Products, MacMillan. 
Sherman — Protein Requirements and Nutritive Efficiency of Bread Protein, 

.Tan., 1920, J. Biol, Chem. 
Snyder — The Indigestibility of ^^^^ole ^Mieat FloTir ; Northwestern Miller, July 

23, 1919. 
State Bulletins — Send to State Agricultural Colleges for Bulletins on Wheat 

or Bread. (Kentucky, Kansas, etc.) 

COOK BOOKS. 

Beecher, C. E. — Domestic Recipe Book, 1848. 

Beeton (Mrs.) — International Cookery (Reprint), Piatt & Peck Co., N. Y. 

Campbell, Helen — In Foreign Kitchens, 1893. 

Corson, Juliet — Practical American Cookery, Dodd, Mead & Co., 1885. 

Earle, a. M. — Colonial Dames and Good Wives, 1895. 

Farmer — The Boston Cooking School, Cook Book (Revised Ed.), Little, Brown 

& Co., 1920. 
Farmer — A New Book of Cookery, Little, Brown & Co., 1912. 
FiLiPPiNO — The International Cook Book, Doubleday, Page & Co., 1906. 



24 BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



IIarland, Marion J. — Complete Cook Book, Bobbs Mei-rill Co., 1905. 
Home Life in Many Lands, series published by the MacMillan Co., 1911-14. 
IvjiNCOLN — The Boston Cook Book, Little, Brown & Co., 1904. 

Pocumtuc Housewife, E-eprint, Deerfield, Mass., 1907. 
EoEER (Mrs.) — Bread and Bread Making, Arnold & Co., Philadelphia, 1900. 
RoRER (Mrs.)- — New Cook Book, Arnold & Co., Philadelphia, 1903. 
Thomas, Edith M. — INIary at the Farm and Book of Recipes, John Hartenstine, 
Norristown, Pa., 1915. 

BULLETINS. 

U. S. Department of Agriculture, Div. of Pub. (Send for Lists.) 

State Agricultural College Bulletins, Especially, Illinois, New York, Wisconsin 

SUBJECTS FOR DEMONSTRATION. 

Flour Testing— A Home Art. 
Many Breads From Same Dough. 
Ancient and Honorable Feast — Breads. 
Tea and Coffee Breads in All Lands. 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



25 



COVNTRE 

Contentments, 

OR 

ThcEnglifli Hu&vife. 

CONTAINING 

The inward and outward Vertues which 
ought to be in z complcatc Woman. 

fiA'shen^U mThj/ic{e, Surgerie^ Exlraclion 
ofOyles, Banqticciiig-ftuffc, Ordering of grcit Feafts, 

Prefcruing of aii forrs of Wines , Conceited Scorers , 

JDfJtiilMtons, Perfumes,er(imngofW&0U, fkmpc^-^ ffjx, 

makJngCloth, Dying, the knowledge of D'tv-;,:'; 

office of Mahtnf, OKs,theirexcellent k 

ia a Family, Brewing, Baking, and a.'i 

Other things belonging t» 

ttiHoofliold. 

Workc gcncr.jily approucd,and now much ai!gnicntcd,purccd 
'^■"d made raoft profitable and neccffarie for alfmcn^.ind Dt" 
dicared to th« Honour of the Noble Houfe of Excctcr, 
and the general! good ofthis Kingdome. 

By G. (Jli. 




fiintcinxLoKdmhy I.'SforR.l4ckiof$,md:itctobc folJathislltop 
nccrcFIcct-fti'cetc Conduct. i6ii» 



n fl 



n 



Gervaise Markham, 1623, wrote several books, two at least on Housewifery and 
one on the care of horses and animals. In his books is a most disorderly but 
engrossing sequence of facts that were essential to the varied activities of the 
mistress of the household, who served as physician, spinner, brewer, weaver and 
gardener for her family. Brewing as well as baking required her constant 
attention. 



26 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 




The Sngiifh Houf-mfes Booke i. 



CfSah 



Ofd-rifig cf 



thcmtbioughabaggcothairc-doth, tunBevpthc faT«c 
after it harh becnca littlr fctlcd into HogPheadSj Barrels 
and other clofc vcfTcIs. 

Nowahci yeuhaucprcftalljvou {liaiifiiuc that winch 
is within the hairc cloth bjg€e,aod puffing it into feuetai 
vdtclsjpui a pretty quantity of water thcrcanto, andafr 
tcr it hath ftood a day or rwc, and hatii bcenc wdJ ftirred 
togchcrjprdrcit.ouerah"oagainCjfor this will makcjt, 
fmall pen y or cidcr^aDd muft be fpeiit firft.Xow of your 
beft fider that which you make of your ftmmer or fwecc 
fruice,you flwll caij {uramcr or fwcet cider or pcrrie,and 
that you ihall fpcnd firft alfo ; and that which you 
make ofthe winter and hard friiice, you fhsli call winrci- 
and fowrc cJder,orpcfry^and chat you may fpend !ift,fo!:' 
icvvilicn dure the longtrft. 

Thus after our EngliOi Hufwife is cxperienc'r in the 
brewing of thefc (euerall drinkcs^fhc Ihall then lookc into 
her Btk'>houfe, and to the baking of all forts of bread, 
cither for MafterSjSeruarKS, or Hiads, and to be orde- 
ring 2nd compounding of the raealcfor each fcucraUvfe- 
Tofpeake then firft of meales for brcad,rhey arc either 
fimple or compound,iimplc,a$ Whcarcand R, iCjOr com* 
pound.ns Ricand W,hcatcm!xtrogether,orR.:e,\\'heate 
and Barley mixc rogetheri«nd of thefe the oldcft meakii 
cucr the bcl},and ycddeth moft foit.befweet and vntain. 
ted, for the prcfornation whcrof,it is n\^?rthat you dcnfc 
your mcalc wcllfrom thcbrannc, and then kccpc it ia 
"{ Vcci vc'flcls. 

Now for tlie baking ofbrcad of your Cmple rreatcs, 

yoi:r bcfl and principal! bread {% manchet^\vhich you CImI 

b.kcin rhis manner- firft your mealcbcin!^ ground vpOfi 

' '' " . ^ifirbepafnblCjVrhichmakj? the'whitcn; 

..Iced throu2h the" focfl bbuking cloth , 

yoa 



Here the ordering of flour under the name of meale is discussed for the baking 
of all sorts of Bread for "Masters, Servants or Hinds." Simple and mixed flours 
seem to have been used. 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



27 



Bookei, Sisiiimbn'mmgand bakery, 231 

you Hiall put it mio a clean KimneJjSnd opening the flowT 
cr hollow in the mitlft, put into it of the bcft Alebarmc 
fie quantity oi three pints to a buflicil of m«lc,with fom 

iaktofcafonitwith.-thcnpiirifi your liquor rcafonable 
%vavmc and kneade It very well together with both your 
hmds and through the brake.or for war^ thereof, fold 
ftrnadorh^and with yoiirfecte tread ira good fpacc to- 
|^ahcr,thcn letting it lie an howre or thereabouts to fwell 
takcitfoorth aw! mold it into nianchcts,rous)d,andl1ar, 
fcotcha'bout the waft to gincir Icauc to rife, and prick k 
mkh your fetiifc in tile toji^aiKlIb put it itKo the Oucn, 
aiidbake it with a gentle hca^c, 

1 o bake the belt cheatc bread, which k alio (Imply of ^*^^n,? 

.'whe.irc oncfy^you flial! afteryoor mc,i!c i% dreft^ind boifb '*^''^^^''*''*'^ 
t«d rhsotjgh -a inore courfc boulter tlicn was vfedfor 

^^ourmsicTserSjandpiitalfcrnfoaclean tub, trough, or 

iimncI^tsAcafowreleau'-'njlsa: s.- 1.-;\ c.-^'r, h \ f elea- 

mess hx^d from t foTinec hvc 

it>bidvptoib\r^- •'. '•* "' 

m iroM pecce^ 

Which5oaeiiEi.iKr .4 

'iaithfemidft of vor 

j#r«fjcdh. 

ItfifeHowcj 

csrike barter,! htss v <., ; 

-iiealhharsii !-* ' 

■.oftlicmra' 

watei,barj5, , , i>u.sj> v.! 

Ieai..ti,{bffcj«ii H. .-; - ihmknead i 

if,as wasl>eforcj".ddsnthc m.mchc's, -:u 10 ;:..,..;.; kvp 

In reafbrtiblcbigge loaneSj.md thcs bake it with an indif- 
ferent cood heat .^and thus accoi ding to thefe two exam- 

•,<lcs before fliewcd, you m IV h.;kc vw bie.uj lc^':C'\! o-- 



■' 'ssia >>i?akc 
•hen firaimr if, 
'.v.« before ft id 
't rOHT?" voui 



Note the use of ale barm in making- ?>Ianchetts and read how Chete bread was 
prepared. Flour was then spelled Flower — and the old "s" is present. 



28 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 




The Sngii(lo Houf-m/es Booke i. 

vnleaucnd whatfocucr, whether it be fimple come, as 
VVhcatcorRicoficfcIfc, or compound gi^ine aswhcai 
and rie,or wheat and barky , or ric and barley, or any 
other mix: white cornc^only becaufc Rie is a little ftron* 
gcr graincthenwhcate, it flwil be good for you to pot 
your watei a little hotter then you did to your whcatd" 
SAlh-,^ of For youi browne bread,or bread ior yor.r hindc*fcr- 

ireirn htil uants, which is the courfcft bread for mans vfe, you {hall 
take of barly two bu{hels,of pc-afc two pecks, ot wht at or 
Ric a pccke,a pcckof makithefcyou llwll grind altoge- 
ther and drcfic it through amealcfiuCjthenputting it In- 
to a fowcr trough fet liquor on the fire, and when itboiis 
let one put on the water,and another wiih a mafli-rudder 
fl ir fomc of the flower with it after it hath been feaforied 
with lalt,and fo let it be till the next day,and then putting 
to the rtft of the flower, workcitvpintoftifFcleaucn, 
then mould it and bake it into great loaucs with a very 
fironghcatc: now if your trough be not fower enough 
to fower your leaucn,then you Ihall cithe? let it lie longer 
in tkc trough,or clfe take the helpc of a fowcr leauen with 
your boiling water: for you muft vndcrftand,that the 
hotter your liquor is,theleffc will the fn^ell or rankndTc 
of the peafe be recciucd. And thus much for the baking 
ofany kinde of bre^, which our Eifgli(h Httfmfe flialJ 
hau c occafion to vfe for the maintcn;ince of her family. 
CentrAll As for the generall obferuations tobe rcfijedcd in the 

ohprHAUoHS BreW'houfcorBakc-houfe,theybethcfc:farft,th3t youi 
VI thi brcv- ]5j-cvvhoufc bc featcd in fo conucnient a part of the houfe, 
^*H' V^r ^ ^^^ ^^^ fmokc may not annoic your other more pWuate 
BA\t-ho(*jt, j,QQj^^^5. fi^ejj fi^m; yQyj. furnace bee made clofe and hol- 
low for fauing fcwcll , and with a vent for the paflagc of 
fmoakelcaft it taint your liquor ) then that you prefcrre 
a copper before a lead, next that your M^it-fat be cucr 

Bccrsft 




Above are the rules for baking the brown or Hinds bread and the conclusion. 
"And this much for the baking of any kind of bread, which the English House- 
wife shall have occasion to use for the maintainance of her family." 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



29 



Bl ^^~T^^^'''*" " " " " * ' ' iiiM« ' i i mi 

oQfeg X* ^^liin kewing and Sa^ng. 



nscrcft to your lcac!e,your cooler nefcren your Maihfx 
andyoarGuilfacvndefyourcoolcr,&adioiningtothem 
all leucralcleanctubstorecciue your worts & liquors- 
then in your Bake houfcyou fiuU hauc a faire boulring 
houfe with large Pipes to boukraealc in, faire troughes 
toiaiclcauccin,andfwccr fafcsto rcceiueyour branne: 
you ftall haue boulters, fearfcs, raunges and mealc fiucs 
of allforis bo'h Bnc & courfc. you /hall hsuc fairc tables 
to mould on, largeouens to bake In the foales thereof ra- 
thcrofone or tvvojntirc nones then of many bricks,and 
the moudi made narrow, fquarc and ea/Jc to he clofe co* 
ucrcd ; asfor your pedes, colc-rakcs, maukinsand fuch 
j!ke,though they be necefliry yer they are of fuch general 
vfe they need no farther relation. And thus much for a ful 
fatisfa«fiiont03ll the Husbands andHufwifesofthis 
kmgdome touching Brewing , Baking, and 
all what elfe appertaincth to cither of 
tnciroffices. 

FINIS. 



m 



Here are the general observations for the care of the bake-house, with the 
conclusion. 

"z\nd thus, much for a full satisfaction to all husbands and housewives of this 
Kingdom touching baking- and all what else appertains to either of their offices." 

Gervaise Mark HAM (1633). 



30 



BREAD— THE VITAL FOOD 



VARIATIONS 



KUSKS— 

Bread dough en- 
riched with sugar, 
shortening and eggs. 
Shape into tall bis- 
cuit. Bake slowly. 

For breakfast. 



SCONES— 

Rich dough as 
above pressed into 
triangles after add- 
ing melted butter 
and chopped raisins. 
Brush tops with but- 
ter. Bake in hot oven. 

Serve with tea. 



YULE CAKES— 

Egg enriched 
dough, very sweet, to 
Which is added nut- 
meg, currants and 
candied lemon peel. 

Serve at Christmas. 



PARKER HOUSE 
ROLLS- 

Shortened dough, 
spread with butter 
rolled into pocket 
book shape and 
baked. 



BREAD DOUGH 



WHITE BREAD 
2 cakes compressed yeast. 

1 qt. lukewarm water. 

2 tablespoonfuls lard or butter, melted. 

2 tablespoonfuls sugar. 

3 qts. sifted flour. 

1 tablespoonful salt. 

Dissolve yeast and sugar in luke- 
warm water, add lard or butter, 
and half the flour. Beat until 
smooth, then add salt and balance 
of the flour, or enough to make 
dough that can be handled. Knead 
until smooth and elastic. Place in 
greased bowl, cover and set aside 
in a moderately warm place, free 
from draft, until light — about one 
and one-half hours. 

Mould into loaves. Place in well- 
greased bread pans, filling them 
half full. Cover and let rise one 
hour, or until double in bulk. Bake 
forty-five to sixty minutes. 

If a rich loaf is desired, use milk 
in place of part or all of the water. 



VARIATIONS 



APPLE CAKE— 

Bread dough en- 
riched with egg — 
shortening, flavored 
with cinnamon, cov- 
ered with cinnamon 
and sugar and sliced 
apple. 

Serve with coffee 
for breakfast or 
lunch. 



BANBURY 
CAKES— 

Ilich dough as 
above, filled with 
minced raisins, or- 
ange peel and sugar. 

Serve with tea. 



HOT CROSS 

BUNS — 

For Good Friday 
or Church days. 
Dough with currants 
or raisins, cross cut 
with knife just be- 
fore you put them in 
the oven. 



CINNAMON 
ROLLS— 

Shortened 
roiled thin, 
with butter, 
cinnamon, currants, 
rolled and baked 
then sliced. 



dough 
spread 
sugar. 



BREAD SOUP 



17th Century 

Take the crninb of two stale rolls or two thick slices of stale bread, add 
to it three pints of fresh skimmed milk, three onions, and half a head of 
celery. Boil it very g-ently in a double boiler, till the bread is dissolved ; then 
pass it through a sieve. Beat a few sweet almonds in a mortar or run through 
grinder till they become a paste ; then stir them into the soup with a little 
salt, and give it a boil over the fire — it is fit to serve up. Remove the onions 
before you pass the soup throug'h the sieve. It requires gentle simmering 
to dissolve the bread entirely. 



THE FRONTISPIECE 

The illustration iu the frontispiece is taken from the 
London and Country Cook, or, "Accomplished House- 
wife," prepared by Charles Carter, "Cook to his Grace 
the Duke of Argyle,'- published in London, in 1749, 
who took the plate from Thomas Dawson's "Good 
House Wifes Jewell," published London, 1610. 

The upper left-hand corner shows a woman making 
butler, with a uiaid milking a cow at her right. 

* 

The picture in the upper riglit-hand corner shows 
the old process of laundry work. 

* 

The center picture shows the lady in the kitchen, 
gathered around her the utensils required. In the 
background are the hives and the bees making honey ; 
hanging suspended from the ceiling the herbs that have 
been gathered for flavoring and spices. 

At the left, the distil latories in which wines and 
simples were made for family use. 

* 

The lower left-hand corner shows the kitchen and 
the preparation of fish. Evidently meat is being cooked 
in the kettle, suspended above the floor, on the s^iit at 
the lower part of the plate is a fowl being roasted, 
and at the left a maid is preparing fish. Above here 
are shown plates and below jars, and an amiable cat 
is walking across the floor, evidently enticed by the 

odor of the fish. 

* 

The most important is at the lower right, showing 
tlie old bake oven, the fire beneath it, and the dome 
above it, in which the bread is baked, the shovel at the 
left, with which the bread is withdrawn. At the right 
are loaves of bread in various processes of raising. 

This picture is one of the very few definite illustra- 
tions of the old bake house, to which reference is made 
in the illustrations in the back part of the Bulletin 
from "Markham's Country Housewife." 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




